Paris: Bouillon Chartier

7 rue du Faubourg Montmartre • 75009 Paris
According to their website, Bouillon Chartier has only had four owners since it opened in Paris in 1896 and on my only visit I've taken there I can see why it has established itself as a bit of a Paris legend . It is simple, authentic and excellent value for money.

I experienced Chartier first hand over dinner with French flatmates from home, Audrey and Julien on their turf in Paris last Autumn.

Although we arrived late in the evening after initial catch ups over a few beers, we had to line up behind a velvet cordon to wait for a table - only a few minutes but enough for a token reunion selfie:

Together again

Inside, it resembled a very typical French brasserie with big high ceilings and lots and lots of tables. My favourite feature is the overhead racks and coat hooks where you can store your mobylette helmet / shopping / leather jacket, as well as the paper table cloths. It feels like a little bit of a time-warp, and reminds me of the meals-with-grandma scenes in one of my favourite French films, 'La Boum' (1980, starring a very young Sophie Marceau).

High ceilings and typical décor belle époque

 Food and drinks are cheap and there is loads to choose from.

 

Menu items crossed out in pen once they run out

France has an impressive array of wholesale pre-made and frozen foodstuffs, and at these prices I have no doubt that many of these items would arrive on site mostly done. That is not the point here though, and for the prices, who cares?! Go for a charming and lively dinner and delight in it for what it is. A good place to try 'classics' like snails, duck confit, or even andouillette without breaking the bank that you'd feel guilty if you didn't like it.

Choucroute Alsacienne

For the record, I think I had Roquefort to start, followed by choucroute. One of my French mums was from Alsace on the border with Germany, so I learned to love this regional specialty. Basically tangy sauerkraut, steamed potatoes, and assorted pork cuts and sausages. Fab with hot French mustard and a wine or beer to wash it down.