Paris: Falafel Chez Marianne

Chez Marianne

2 rue des Hospitalieres-Saint-Gervais

75004 Paris

Recently another lucky couple of friends had a weekend in Paris and asked me for some recommendations, so I am going to try and get back on this blog wagon and get suggesting.

For me, a trip to Paris is simply incomplete without a walk through the Marais and a pilgrimage to Chez Marianne for a classic falafel. Unfortunately I think C and Z ran out of time for this particular indulgence, but I always find a way to fit one in.

Although a trendy area now, a few blocks from the modern art museum (Centre Pompidou), the history of it as a Jewish community is still evident along Rue des Rosiers in particular. This street is dotted with kosher bakeries and restaurants, and Jewish bookshops. It has become especially popular for falafel, and at any time of day you will notice queues of people snaking down the street out the doors of the tine establishments which usually have only a few tables inside.

One place in particular, L'As du Fallafel seems to have found fame via New York reviewers, but my go to is Chez Marianne on the corner of Rue des Rosiers and rue des Hospitaliers-Saint-Gervais. It has a maroon awning and you can go inside to sit down, though I always grab a take away and perch around the corner outside. Go inside and pay for what you like (classic falafel pita, always) and take your ticket outside to the little window where an always smiling person puts together your monstrous handful of deliciousness. I usually can't pass up a Jewish pastry from inside 'for later', but the pita is definitely the star.

Fresh, hot falafel pita

The falafels are fresh, hot, crispy and served with salad, hummus, a harissa-y red sauce and the most incredibly melty aubergine, topped with yogurt sauce. Serve yourself with pickles and chilli and you have a seriously amazing meal for about 6 euro.

Took Mum in May, she loved it too

Paris: Bouillon Chartier

7 rue du Faubourg Montmartre • 75009 Paris
According to their website, Bouillon Chartier has only had four owners since it opened in Paris in 1896 and on my only visit I've taken there I can see why it has established itself as a bit of a Paris legend . It is simple, authentic and excellent value for money.

I experienced Chartier first hand over dinner with French flatmates from home, Audrey and Julien on their turf in Paris last Autumn.

Although we arrived late in the evening after initial catch ups over a few beers, we had to line up behind a velvet cordon to wait for a table - only a few minutes but enough for a token reunion selfie:

Together again

Inside, it resembled a very typical French brasserie with big high ceilings and lots and lots of tables. My favourite feature is the overhead racks and coat hooks where you can store your mobylette helmet / shopping / leather jacket, as well as the paper table cloths. It feels like a little bit of a time-warp, and reminds me of the meals-with-grandma scenes in one of my favourite French films, 'La Boum' (1980, starring a very young Sophie Marceau).

High ceilings and typical décor belle époque

 Food and drinks are cheap and there is loads to choose from.

 

Menu items crossed out in pen once they run out

France has an impressive array of wholesale pre-made and frozen foodstuffs, and at these prices I have no doubt that many of these items would arrive on site mostly done. That is not the point here though, and for the prices, who cares?! Go for a charming and lively dinner and delight in it for what it is. A good place to try 'classics' like snails, duck confit, or even andouillette without breaking the bank that you'd feel guilty if you didn't like it.

Choucroute Alsacienne

For the record, I think I had Roquefort to start, followed by choucroute. One of my French mums was from Alsace on the border with Germany, so I learned to love this regional specialty. Basically tangy sauerkraut, steamed potatoes, and assorted pork cuts and sausages. Fab with hot French mustard and a wine or beer to wash it down.